The Kandy to Ella Train: How to Ride the Hill Country Line
The hill country railway winds from Kandy up through Nanu Oya (for Nuwara Eliya), Haputale and Ella, climbing past tea estates, waterfalls and misty peaks. The full Kandy to Ella stretch takes roughly six to seven hours, and the slow pace is the point. Open doorways, tea-covered slopes and cool mountain air make it a highlight for many travellers.
Classes and booking
Trains have reserved first, second and third class, plus unreserved second and third class. Reserved seats sell out days ahead in high season, so book early through the railway or a trusted agent. If reserved seats are gone, unreserved third class still gets you the same views and the famous open doors.
Which side to sit
For much of the Nanu Oya to Ella section the best valley views are on the right-hand side heading towards Ella, but people move around and doorways are shared, so do not stress over the exact seat.
What you pass
Look out for tea pickers on the slopes, the Demodara loop where the line spirals over itself, and a string of tunnels and small colonial stations. Vendors walk the carriages selling tea, vadai and fruit.
Practical tips
Bring a light layer, it gets cool and can rain in the hills. Keep the doorway areas clear for others and hold on. If you only have time for a short leg, the Nuwara Eliya (Nanu Oya) to Ella stretch is the most scenic.
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